The Handmaid’s Tale: A Cautionary Tale of Religion’s Divisive Power

I picked up The Handmaid’s Tale during my travels earlier last year. I finally started it on my way home in August. The timing couldn’t have been more apt with the 2024 election season looming. As I read, I was struck by how Atwood’s dystopian vision reflects today’s struggles with democracy, justice, and the rise of extremism. The Hulu adaptation, released during the first Trump administration, expands the novel’s themes, offering a grim exploration of how fragile freedom can be—and how quickly it can be surrendered by those with even the best of intentions. The parallels between Atwood’s imagined world and our own are unsettling, especially as the adaptation explores how societal complacency and extremism intertwine to erode fundamental freedoms.

A US Tradition: Freedom of Religion or Dominance by Faith?

The Handmaid’s Tale draws on the history how the US was founded, where many of the original colonists came seeking freedom to practice their religious sects and form their societies according to their interpretation of divine law. It all started with religious freedom. Or was it religious hegemony? Was the pursuit of religious freedom, in reality, driven by a desire to reshape society’s hierarchy according to a different dogmatic order?

Is that where things all went wrong? With the state of American democracy, the state of global regression and reactivity, it’s hard not to ask these questions, especially after reading a dystopian novel and watching a series which reflects on how the US has evolved since the novel was published in the 80s. Or rather, how the issues have advanced and the socially conservative continue to openly veer further and further to the right.

The colonization of the United States, colonization in general, entailed “freedom and justice” for a small margin of the population that at the time was significant in comparison to the Europe of the time. Still, which part of the world has been able to move past the dark ages? We still seem so mired in the Puritanical (and rightly named) dilemmas of our “forefathers.” Now that block has led us into the hands of a tyrant, someone that would fire and threaten those that oppose him or disagree with him and have the final say on how we define truth.

That is, concretely, the antithesis of freedom. The antithesis of justice, represented by immunity being granted by being elected. In this case. Exceptions are dangerous. Is the law no longer something that applies to everyone? We’ve grown so corrupt and so confused that some would believe he has earned his clemency by popular vote.

These themes of American identity and the idea of a collapsed US state are sketched on the page and brought to life by the Hulu series. In the book, the titular Handmaid June remains nameless. Her true identity was never discovered, as noted by the historians in the epilogue that spoke about analyzing and studying her recordings. They could not even be sure of who her Commander was, though they had some theories. That was something both fascinating and frustrating about the read. A frustration that the series satisfies, an itch that was scratched by realizing the world building hinted at vividly.

From Fiction to Reality: Lessons for Modern Politics

“I hate this world,” the Luke of the TV show says as he adjusts the straps of his wife’s bulletproof vest. That sentiment could not resonate with me any deeper. So much of the series deals with a wish-fulfillment induced by the novel’s air of hopelessness, including the definitive reunion of this couple, divided by Gilead law that, once established, had the power to annule marriages and divide families “in the name of God.”

The final season of the show explores the backlash of Canadians towards the influx of American refugees due to a scenario in which the US divides along religious and political lines. I feel that the Americans expressing this sort of hostility towards Haitian refugees and other immigrants need to watch this show, need to imagine a world where their home is no longer theirs, where they become the unwanted immigrants by no fault of their own choices or power. Empathy is the weak point of many, sadly, drowned out by American arrogance and dogmatic belief in “one nation, under God, indivisible…”.

After the final episode of Season 5, I was devastated by the idea that, as in real life, the problems had only continued to mount, with new challenges, and no clear, neat resolution. Like the handmaids in training forced to scrub an old church, I feel a stir; I want more.

Characters and Parallels

This final handmaid scene centers on the affection Aunt Lydia has developed for Janine. A character like Aunt Lydia is worthy of a deep analysis of her own. She reminds me of the many women that believe that they are doing the Lord’s work by oppressing and punishing others, no matter how much they want to sincerely help people and do the right thing. They can’t break free of the system they are complicit with without being broken in turn. Moreover, the woman herself is such a broken character. The glimpse of her backstory did well to show her on-going conflict between giving people a chance and her outward and inward rigidity with herself and her own natural needs and urges. She is hard on others because she is harder on herself. That makes her, as detestable as she can be, a sympathetic character on a road to hell paved with good intentions.

In the 5th season, June’s violent journey of healing comes full circle. It’s almost like a detox and a reckoning after the conclusion of the 4th season where she takes revenge on Commander Waterford and starts the 5th season unhinged and blood thirsty. Yet by the end of the final season, she questions her husband about the need to have a gun. She has realized that Gilead and the violence normalized there in its mass executions and torturous practices are what pushed her to embrace her own dark side and cling to it in a situation where she had otherwise been powerless.

Parallel to the protagonist, the Serena Joy’s development was something I would never have expected to be so pleased and uplifted by. Admittedly, from my perspective, they are both women being oppressed by the same system in different ways. The difference is that, of course, Serena is humbled and forced to face the consequences of the flaws in the society she helped build and promote. She’s stubborn and self-interested, self-assured on narcissistic levels, but there is a sense that she has realized that she was blinding herself, unable to accept the mistakes made by supporting a regime like Gilead’s. With the shoe on both feet, her eyes are opened in an irrevocable way that adds to my excitement to see what happens next in a future season.

For me, Serena represents so many pious women, as does Lydia, that do not realize how their own beliefs and dogmas can ultimately do more harm than good. By passing judgment on others, they also make themselves more vulnerable to have judgment passed on them, as women in this patriarchal system have no real power. The warning: When you sign away your rights, be aware that there may be no going back.

What a closing shot. Billy Eilish’s Bury a Friend set the perfect tone as a bemused June stares into the eyes of a happily surprised Serena, a woman who had to free herself by following June’s advice, two women that were turned against each other by Gilead, by the system, by men and the hierarchy they created.

Self-Fulfilling Prophecy: Warning or Reality?

“America wasn’t Gilead until it was too [redacted] late. And then it was.” This powerful line comes from a June waking up to the reality that Canada is not the safe haven she had hoped for. No place is safe once extremism takes hold, and that is the fear I feel seeing the direction of US politics in 2024 (early 2025).

The ending of this season is a wakeup call. This is how freedom dies. It might seem dramatic, but I hear the warning from Elizabeth Moss’s character loud and clear. All this time, people see that things are changing and yet they choose to reject reality because “This is America.” But what happens when what America means, its very foundations, are revealed? Our American dream is a warped, redacted version of our history and reality. A manipulation of truth. And it all started with this religious freedom leading to religious extremism – in spite of the effort to separate church and state – so much so that this tenuous separation is brought under fire in every election, especially in states that have not fully stepped out of the dark shadow of our history, that scarcely learned the real history of this country.

What does it mean to live in a totalitarian regime? It means the threat of lost life for expressing any opinion, thought, or sentiment that goes against the established order of things. You might feel comfortable along the path to this sort of autocratic society thinking that you will be protected from some “enemy within.” But the truth is, you might just lose everything in the process, even your humanity. Even your home. Even your life.

All in all, the series does a good job of fleshing out the world that Margaret Atwood offered a limited first-person perspective of in the novel. It brought me to tears several times because of how real it all felt. How real it could be. Division between religious extremists and everyone else is feeling more and more inevitable. And at the end of the day, the extremism is propped up by non-religious figures like Joseph Lawrence in the series, people that know how to take advantage of the dogma, fear, and selfish interests of the average person.

To conclude my reaction to the end of the Handmaid’s Tale season 5, it was not the most satisfying ending — as I’ve said, I want more. The heart wants what it wants, and mine is broken. Luckily, at the point that I am editing this post (3/11/25), season 6 is right on time which should hold up an even more unsettling mirror now that Trump has undeniably taken over and set up an even more extreme, unsettling regime.

In the wake of the 2024 elections and everything following the inauguration, The Handmaid’s Tale serves as a stark reminder of the fragility of freedom and the dangers of complacency. Atwood’s warnings are not just fiction—they are a call to action. Let us not wait until it’s too late to protect our rights, our democracy, and our humanity. Let us not surrender our freedom to love out of fear and clinging to the false promise of stability.

This reflection was written around the time before and after the 2024 election — I didn’t want to rewrite it including all we know and have seen now, but I think it still speaks to the big picture and observations the show brought up for me.

Day 3 in Leticia: Change of Plans (Again)

I’ve spoken till I’m blue in the face at this point on instagram and whatsapp and messenger voicenotes, but I figure why not add to the chronicles with a blog post?

I am the living, breathing example that not everything is rainbows and beautiful instagram shots when you travel. In fact, a great many things can stress you out, leaving you drained and frustrated.

I woke up feeling tired but optimistic. The internet signal was too weak in my last hotel to teach my classes, and surprise: it was raining. I got here at the beginning of “winter” as the locals call rainy season. I knew that I would, but I didn’t think it would end up affecting me this much. I had to reschedule my first class of the day as a result.

With nothing else to do, I decided to check out quickly and use that hour to try to get things sorted out with immigration as fast as possible. To cover myself from the rain, the receptionist at the Tapir hotel gave me a plastic rain poncho. That was an act of kindness I really do appreciate. And with that, I hurried to the office around the corner.

Well, as was to be expected, more complications were waiting for me. Lisbeth, the migration lady, printed out an invoice I was to take to efecty to pay. (Efecty, for the uninitiated, is a Colombian company similar to Western Union) Second “surprise” of the day: I have to pay with cash. Like the rain, this wasn’t really a surprise, I mean, I figured as much, but I still wanted to believe there might be another way. I wanted to be wrong, basically.

What’s a girl to do? Thank Buddha for good friends. One was able and willing to transfer the money I needed to my Colombian account. I just needed to take care of my preply classes first so that I could go take out the money to pay the fine. At my next hotel, which is further out of the way than I expected or would like, the internet was just strong enough for me to have 3 lessons. With the camera off, of course, because it was pouring all day, which meant even starlink’s signal wasn’t strong enough.

Words can’t express the gratitude I feel for my students’ patience with me. I did the best I could, and once I was finished, I headed out searching for an ATM or corresponsal (shop that partners with a bank where you can withdrawal money). Good thing this capital city is small — smaller than Valledupar, more like a town (Fonseca, La Guajira comes to mind). Walking around in the rain would have been worse if I couldn’t have oriented myself as well as I did. Plus, on the bright side, no taxis needed!

Once I got to the efecty, I was hit with my 3rd “surprise” of the day: no service! The people working in the shop with the efecty sign were blunt: there are no efecty’s working in the city. This floored me, but of course I wasn’t going to take their word for it.

Like a game of cat and mouse where the mouse is always a bit faster…or is it like a dog chasing its own tail? Similes aside, I turned around and headed straight for the migration office around the corner. First I asked the guard about what I had heard about efecty, and he immediately pointed me to Lisbeth.

When I told her what had happened, her face froze. According to her, if they said that efecty was down in the city, then there were no other options. She made it clear as day to me that the only way I could pay my fine was at an efecty — there was no longer a bank with a government connection. I could not — still cannot — believe what I was hearing. I thought about those people that she had told me were also being fined in December. Apparently, there were more of us than usual. I tried to stay calm and asked her, “Do you have at least a list of efecty locations that I can check instead of going door to door trying to find one?” To be clear, I had not had much success looking on google maps.

Ultimately, she gave me this list, and the place that she recommended the most was not even listed on google maps. She apologized for everything, telling me she was embarrassed but unable to change the system. I get it. It has to suck just as much for her, being the bearer of bad news. I also apologized for my own frustration; it’s just nothing had prepared me for such a ridiculous conundrum. She claimed that most likely it was the rain that had caused the system to crash, and that it could be fine the next day.

When I walked outside, I noticed that just next door there was an efecty sign on the building. Huh? One right next door and she didn’t even mention it? As soon as I walked in, I also saw the sign saying there was no efecty service for the moment. I decided to ask the teller if she knew where I could find a working efecty.

The 4th (well 5th if we consider only being able to pay a government fine at an efecty that apparently isn’t available a “surprise”) gut-punch of a surprise I did not see coming. All efecty’s had been down, according to the lady, and that’s why the people at the first one had said what they did. And not only that, efecty had been unavailable for over a month. I felt stupified. How did the immigration officer not know in such a small town where she had had to charge so many people that the only form of payment was not available — for over a month?! How?!

The light at the end of the tunnel was that there was one “rumored” to work, the same one the officer had recommended to me saying that no one had any trouble using as far as she knew — but why not just tell me about it in the first place instead of sending me on a wild goose chase? We may never know.

So, I walked the 7 odd blocks to get to this place, my blisters growing by the moment, only to find it closed for the day. There was also not a single efecty sign on the building. Should I be worried?

Well, with my luck, I am more than a bit worried. I need to get out of this town. I’ve even started a gofundme because as I said in the migration office, all of this mess is costing me by the day just to stay and drag things out when all I want to do is pay the government what I owe it. The worst thing is I can’t even leave the town unless I want to be considered culpable and deported — which is to say, not allowed back into the country without a visa ever again.

A wise man on my instagram feed says that for something to be beautiful or strong, it had to be “burnt and battered and bent into shape.” Maybe that’s what I’m going through? Maybe I’m just an idiot? Maybe, but I hope this information prepares you in case you are ever unsure about your immigration status — don’t trust officers, do the math and be proactive. But also I guess the message is, don’t give up, because you never know when the answer might be waiting behind the next obstacle.

So, with that, I bid you all adieu and goodnight. I am exhausted, and all I can hope is that tomorrow will be a little bit less awful than today.

You guys can find my gofundme here: https://gofund.me/f4dabab1

Every little bit helps ❤

Overstaying in Colombia

Today is Christmas, and instead of spending time with loved ones, opening presents, feeling abundance, I’m recovering from a beaten down immune system, sitting in a cheap hotel room in the middle of Leticia, Colombia. I was supposed to be spending Christmas on a boat cruise through the Amazon. However, I made a huge mistake, and I am hoping my experience can be of use for others that might also encounter a similar situation.

I have been spending a lot of time in this beautiful country. As a tourist with no visa, I knew that my days were numbered. 180 days is the standard, with a total of 90 days you can spend in two separate entries (or divide it up how you will). This year has been somewhat hectic, and though I haven’t been officially living in Colombia, I did use it as a homebase before deciding to go home and save money in August. I had calculated my days, but I wasn’t 100% certain where I stood in the system.

Generally, upon reentry, the migration officer is supposed to review your days, stamp your passport, and write the exact number of days allowed to stay in the country. I know this because last year when I was in a similar situation, the officer told me exactly how many days I had left and warned me that if I didn’t leave before that time, I should pay for an extension (salvoconducto) to avoid bigger problems — like the ones I’m facing now.

This time was different. I still remember how the guy looked at me. With disdain, indifference — and this strange air that he knew he was taking a shortcut by writing 90 days and didn’t care how that might affect me in the end. Sure, he may have been tired, and a lot of people come and go at this time of the year. But once I showed my passport to get my exit stamp, initially I was told there must be a mistake on their end.

When I got to Leticia early on Christmas Eve, I found a very mediocre (to avoid a stronger word) airport with little guidance. It was the taxi drivers, ironically, that told me where I should get my passport stamped (no signs indicating that there was a migration office in the ugly building that honestly resembled a bus terminal more than an airport). That was after I had consulted the internet and found I would need to go downtown to the migration office — the information on the internet always seems to contradict, and that’s part of why I’m writing this now.

Ironically, when you enter Leticia, they charge a 45k COP tourist fee that is supposed to support the local processes, sustainability, and infrastructure for tourism. Nobody talked about this before I got there either, but it was required in order to leave the airport.

I went back into the airport and entered the migration area. There was an office with one guy working. I found him busy trying to approve an entry stamp for two Guatemalan ladies with long, tired faces. Avianca had rerouted their flight, and now they were stuck entering Colombia officially when it was supposed to be just a layover. Although I empathized with their situation, I was impatient because as usual the process was far too slow, with the guy calling and calling and typing and carrying on, rehashing the same details as if they had not explained what had happened clearly enough.

I had left my bags with the taxi driver and two other foreign women I had decided to join to split the taxi, so I was even more aware of how long it was taking just to get a stamp. The ladies had time, plenty as they would need to wait for the next flight, and they also told the officer that if I just needed an exit stamp, he could take care of that and then get back with them (bless their souls for that kindness). But he dismissed me and told me it wouldn’t be long. Then when I mentioned why I was in a rush, he snapped at me. Clearly he didn’t like that I was questioning the operation or why it was so inefficient. Trust me, I’ve been in a position like his, and I wasn’t blaming him, but he should have been clear that what he was doing would take a while so I could act, not just ignore me then get irritated when I asked how long it would take.

The tension mounted with me repeatedly saying “Hagale, hagale” because he would not just do his job after that. He had to keep reprimanding me for being out of line and defending himself and the migration system. When he finally called me forward, he did apologize, I’ll give him that, but he made it clear that he was more concerned with saving face in front of the other ladies. I had mentioned that it was unfortunate how problematic the immigration process could be, and he had corrected me saying this was a routine issue that was no fault of his or Colombian immigration. In short, the defensiveness was because he knew the job he was doing sucked.

Then came the moment he finally checked my passport and the system. He found I overstayed and that I would need to go to the central immigration office to pay — just what I hoped I would not have to do since by this point, I’m running low on COP in my Bancolombia account. Of course, he couldn’t take care of the process there. (That would be too convenient)

When I left that building, disgruntled, I was lucky to be received by a very kind taxi driver named Jose. He gave me a fair price, recognized my emotions, and told me that these sorts of things happen every day. He had seen so much that I didn’t even have to say what was wrong. I felt both sad and comforted as he told me about his late-wife’s inability to receive medical care in Colombia because of paperwork and fees he was not able to pay. They were charging him in dollars, only because she was Brazilian, a foreigner, unable to be affiliated to a Colombian medical plan.

That broke my heart. His words will stay with me forever: “My wife died of cancer before they were able to solve this bureaucratic problem appropriately.” No solution could be offered, just money that he didn’t have.

The folklore as they call it in Colombia continued once I spoke to the immigration officer in the official office. She was a kind woman with a killer style, purple and blue hair and tattoos a plenty. She spoke to me openly and seemed to be on my side, especially when she observed the 90 dias written on my passport stamp. She recognized that it wasn’t right or fair – unlike the guy at the airport who told me it was my responsibility to keep track of my days, not theirs.

Still, you know that this and worse happens regularly. I broke down sobbing at the prospect of having to choose between paying almost 400 USD to “fix” this constancy problem or be deported and no longer welcomed into Colombia without a passport. She didn’t console me as much as she told me that everything has a solution and not to cry. Typical.

But imagine a Christmas like the one I’ve had. My throat swelled with inflammation and my head hurt more than I could stand. The option of just leaving for Brazil and accepting deportation was not an easy out with me feeling that way. After some time using the shitty internet they offered trying to ask for advice and weigh the pros and cons of both options, I decided to get a hotel nearby and sleep on it.

That was the best choice I could have made. Today I feel better. Although I didn’t eat all of yesterday, I got medicine and had a good lunch today. I’ve been looking at my budget and logistics. Flying straight home would cost me more than toughing it out and moving forward with my plans. I decided I will pay the fine — tomorrow, since the office is closed for Christmas today — to avoid bigger problems in the future. As many friends have reminded me, even if I evade the fee, they will find a way to get their money sooner or later.

This means that I have to adjust my travel plans, my budget, and how much I’m willing to do. I could change my flight out of Brazil, but at the price I got it, I don’t think it would be worth it. Now I’m looking at a month traveling. If I find hosts to couchsurf with or stick to hostels, I have a budget in order where the primary expenses are transportation or potential tours I decide to go on. Local food is not so expensive, so I can handle those costs as well.

Tomorrow I will go back and pay the fine. Then I’ll book my place on the ship to Manaus for Saturday. If all goes well, I’ll get to Manaus on New Years Day, where I will spend a week or two there before flying to Salvador and then making my way down the coast to Rio.

There are still question marks circling my head. How will tomorrow go? Will they charge more than what they said? What about when I’m in Brazil — what if something else goes wrong?

Well, at least I have students and friends that support me. My family has also been there encouraging me to do what I feel is best. So, it’s just a matter of staying flexible and open-minded.

That’s traveling. That’s life. And this year has been nothing if not one learning experience after another.

Survival Mode and Learning to Slow Down to Thrive

I wrote this on October 15th, almost a year ago when I was over two months into working at a jungle hostel. The transition from living in a city working at a private school and working and living in the middle of the jungle, in the middle of nature, in the hospitality industry, was not an easy one, as much as I wanted to be there and felt blessed by circumstance. There, I reflected and wrote about my internal struggle with living in survival mode and how hard it is to truly thrive in that state.

I went to walk down the closest stream today with the intention of simply observing and being present – meditating. All day I have been in fawn mode. Our body’s response to being in danger can come in many forms, but we are most familiar with fight or flight. We forget about fawn and freeze. Fawning is when we think we can placate the cause of our extra-alert state and by doing so, be safe from danger (the reason our nervous system is dysregulated). Freezing obviously is when we shut down completely (playing dead) when we can no longer fawn or fight or run away.

In this role I feel constantly stuck between the 4. I have been living in survival mode for so long, my nervous system doesn’t even know how to regulate itself – or rather, the processes it would go through need to be heavily strengthened because as it stands, I am in a state of hypervigilance that doesn’t allow me to function properly. This affects mood and bodily functions, and everything in between.

But the biggest thing I’m finding that it affects is the ability to be present. Without being present, you cannot observe and take in anything around you. An animal being chased by a predator does not stop to notice the ripples in the river or the color of the plants around it or even the scents left by other animals. It compromises this ability to stay alive, and to survive, it only needs to run as quickly as possible without feeling its own exhaustion.

That’s flight, but the same is true when we fight and black out. We might not even remember what set us off or who threw the first punch – this is why we so often misremember events after going through something dramatic or traumatic. We act on instinct, and that instinct could be to hit back.

It might equally be to fawn. No one is threatening my livelihood, but I fear being hated by my bosses and coworkers, making a bad impression on customers, and so on, and since these things rely on my disposition and the way other people perceive me. So, in this state the urge is to perform behaviors that will keep the perceived threatening party happy. The worst thing for me about being stuck here is that I can vacillate to fight because I am aware that this job is not a big deal. I am so grateful for the experience, which can lead to me being fearful of doing something wrong and losing it, but in reality, I am free, and my livelihood is not relying whatsoever on me working here. And I know that.

Sometimes though, we just freeze. For me it feels like my head is full of cement. It’s trying to move and form thoughts, phrases, actions, but it’s like pushing a boulder through pudding. Sometimes nothing makes sense to me. I can’t even breathe, think, take a moment to connect with my body and my surroundings.

That’s when it hit me. The water in that stream is full of ripples, forming little waves. Those ripples are caused by the movement of tons of tiny, small fish and insects and living things living in the stream, pushing against the waters. And that is every person and circumstance, moving through a stream we cannot control, hitting obstacles, running into other people and their feelings and their consciousness and not being able to see what causes those ripples. We can only see it if we slow down. We can only see the cause of the movements around us if we are present, observing, noticing. This has been coming up in my meditations a lot, the reason being still can be so essential to meditation. The need to connect.

The need to acknowledge other forms of consciousness and life. Living matter all must have some level of conscious awareness, even if it is not able to manifest itself. The living matter is full of energy that changes forms without being destroyed.

I would not notice this if I didn’t choose to slow down, stop, observe. I cannot notice anything in survival mode.

This thought led to another of my theories. Our bodies and our biology have a reason and a purpose molded by all of the thousands of years of evolution and changes we’ve faced as living things on this Earth. At one time, our survival depended as much on observing as it did on fighting or any of the other instinctual behaviors. Well, observing can be instinctual as well. It has also served us to thrive as living beings. And with our lives today, our threats have been misplaced to mundane situations related to our source of livelihood: money, jobs. For that reason, we cannot tell the difference between a true threat and something that simply feels uncomfortable.

Furthermore, we spend so much of our day passively engaging with technology. I realized that the energy in my body must be channeled in an active way. Otherwise, it could only be fueling my anxiety – the cortisol levels are not divorced from eons of evolution. We feel stress because we were wired to some extent to move. To use our consciousness to think, analyze, and observe. To use our bodies to walk, run, be useful, be active. And yet so much of our time is dedicated to sitting and staring at a screen and reacting to other people’s actions and thoughts and possibly expressing our own but in limited and formulaic ways. This can’t be serving the purpose we human beings have, our needs as complex beings to move both mentally and physically and act.

These reflections came to me sitting on a mossy rock in the middle of the jungle, watching the stream, observing mushrooms growing on a log. Something this mundane is still crucial for us to reach our full potential as living things. A leaf has as much purpose as we do – it grows to feed its tree; it dies to feed other living things and to nourish the soil. And the cycle continues. 

Thinking about life in this way is hugely comforting to me. It reminds me I can find the motivation I need to fulfill my own purpose as a living being, no matter how small and insignificant it may seem. But I must use all the tools available to me as a human: my mind connected to my body and the environment that surrounds me.

Entre Comillas: Chapter 2, Dreamer’s Disease

Millennial naivety. Dreamer’s disease.

I never was set up for low expectations. With my marketing degree and my 4 years working at Kohl’s, I was sure setting up shop would be easy. The real struggle would be establishing myself.

Since I was young, I fancied myself a writer. An artist. All that was missing from my wave of whimsy was the “starving” epithet in front of the “artist.” 

Some might call me aimless. I would just say young and stupid. But regardless, I felt myself stagnate with every passing day in Fayetteville. The heat of summer passed and the mild cold of winter would turn to frosted leaves. I wanted the eternal sun of the West. I wanted to live in someone else’s skin – someone smarter and happier and better. And isn’t that the dream most people seek?

El camión olía a tierra y perspiración. Una sensación de estar inundado en un pantano me bañaba como mi propio sudor. Trataba de no mirar hacia nada, ni al hombre medio parado frente a mí contra la otra pared del camión, ni a la niña y su madre enganchadas a la mano derecha. La vista se me hizo borrosa a los periferales. El ojo se enfocaba en el centro, en el corazón. Pensaba en nada más que mi propia respiración, centrándome en las horas que pasaba con mi celular, escuchando y viendo a medias los videos de meditación y yoga. Yo tenía (y siempre he tenido) un deseo insaciable de ser invencible, de encontrarme en un mundo más allá de la realidad. Y nunca antes alcancé esta meta hasta aquel día en el camión. Y las noches después, también bañadas en sudor, que se me hacían eternas. Y creo que jamás viviré tal delirio nuevamente. O, al menos, eso espero.

Of course, for all my semi-privilege, I couldn’t just pick up and move to the City of Angels. I had a savings account that had barely made it past the $1,000 marker. I had blown most of my money on art kits and dance classes and improvised trips. Oh, and college, which I had not gotten a free ride to afford. Much to the chagrin of my working class parents, I was neither talented enough to earn some sort of fancy art’s scholarship or sport’s scholarship – god forbid – and not bright enough to get a full ride on my academic merits either. I was just good enough to cover the bare minimum.

Regardless, I had never been the sort of person to listen to reason or bar myself. I knew how to work the retail world, sure, I was not the most social of people (although I could lie and say the experience overall changed my essence, I would say it was more of a necessity to adapt that changed me). Retail is relevant everywhere though. 

I started by looking at my budget. Where could I live with just enough scraped together to pay a security deposit and rent and still be able to buy a few groceries?

Craig’s List became my best friend. Some ads were sketchier than others. Some seemed normal until you looked at them hard enough and began to ask yourself “Where is the lie?” My budget was pencil slim – no more than $500 a month until I became established. I sent out so many job applications on monster and indeed and, yes, Craig’s List, too, that I thought for sure I would be in a bind once all of the calls started rolling in.

The phone was unnervingly silent. I waited as long as I could before resigning. I had nothing, nowhere to start.

So I began to look for alternatives. Some Craigslist ads advertised what to my naive 22 year old mind was unthinkable – a strange sex trade for free living situation. I stumbled upon a few links that unambiguously read “Free Housing for Live-in Companion.” Companion, I thought, scrunching my brow and biting my lip as if that euphemism was not painfully clear enough. A smile cracked my lips in spite of my disgust as I read on. “Looking for a lovely young lady to share a queen sized bed with me. I will treat you like a queen. Open-mindedness a must.” My lips folded back in a cringe. Pass. As tempting as paying nothing for rent was, my dignity was worth so much more. Although, with each passing day, I could feel myself becoming restless, and with restlessness came the inevitable shifting of my moral compass, what I felt was absolutely oh-hell-no and negotiable – the two formerly isolated concepts were beginning to blur and merge.

One day, a friend reminded me casually of the possibility of couchsurfing. “Why don’t you try it, Claire?” she asked as she sipped her pumpkin spice latte. “I mean, what do you have to lose? You keep saying you can’t spend more than $400 upfront, what could be better than free? You get on your feet, you might get asked on some weird dates or proposed some awkward cuddle sessions, but hey, why not?”

I knew she was being sarcastic, and I shrugged and shook my head. “How even does that work?” As she sipped, I played with my long dark hair. For some reason, splitting my own ends where they were most damaged was calming to me. Also, I loathe pumpkin spice lattes.

My friend, Amber (yes, the most typical of all white girl names), took an extra long sip of her latte. “Well,” she said, “it’s simple. You stay with someone and exchange company for free room and board.”

“Ugh, lame!” I cried, thinking of the unsavory mix of craigslist ads I had waded through for the past week. “When does the actual, um, couch-surfing thing happen?”

“Chill, it’s not, like, prostitution or anything, girly. It’s perfectly legit, the hosts have profiles and everything. I mean, yeah, I’ve had a few hookups on there, but you know, it was like totally unplanned and not awkward at all!”

I felt like my eyes rolled so far back in my head I had found the gap within the space-time continuum.

“Okay, let me back up and reexplain.” She knew the face I was making all too well. She took one last noisy sip of her decimated drink, her lips slurping hard with a desperation that ignored how annoying most people found slurping to be. “Don’t jump to conclusions. Basically, the host can offer you a place on their couch. Sometimes they have spare beds. Sometimes people make agreements to sleep in the same bed. But that’s, like, totally up to the individual.”

Sometimes I wondered how Amber and I had managed to be friends for so long. I thought of myself as being so deep, and sometimes I saw her depth as barely reaching my ankles. I pursed my lips, trying to hide a grin that would inevitably turn into a sneer.

Amber paused, tilting her head at me before bursting out into an uncomfortable cackle. The laugh shook her whole body, and she pushed her dyed red hair back behind an ear so as to avoid it covering her perfectly symmetrical face. “So, you check it out. I mean, it’s free. And really what you trade is just like, cooking and stuff. Going out on hikes. Watching movies. It’s fun. I’ve done it loads of time when I’ve went traveling. Trust me.” Her eyes pleaded with me to take her seriously, but her habitually humorous tone gave her away as insincere.

“Alright, alright,” I said finally. “I’ll take a look tonight and see what I think. Anything to avoid homelessness!”

We had a running joke about me ending up on skid row. It wasn’t the pleasantest or most PC of our jokes, but lately it was looking more and more likely.

After a bit of perusing, I realized that Couch surfing wasn’t the harlotry I had taken it for. The people seemed cool. It was just a matter of finding shared interests and going from there. I sifted for hours through pages that ranged from brief but succinct bullet lists of the person’s interests to a fully detailed novelesque description of their hobbies, goals, and various experiences with couchsurfing. Some claimed to be free spirits that always were hoping to learn something new. The majority were sociable and had likewise expectations of fully getting to know their guest. I figured that could only be expected, to avoid awkwardness. After all, this was not an airbnb you-paid-for-it experience. This was a social experiment, putting two people from different parts of the world into the same living space and seeing what would happen, what they could learn, what they could share…

In the end I was convinced, in spite of Amber’s horrible and somewhat facetious explanation. She never was good for that sort of serious stuff. Now the only issue was finding a host I might be “compatible” with, comfortable with sharing new things and exploring my new home, and yes, kind of freeloading until I got a job.

The more I thought of it in this light, the more I was reminded of my brief but impactful stints on okcupid and tinder. More so on okcupid. There was very little to gain from an app that based your preferences on impulse based on physical appearance alone. I couldn’t be bothered. But the bullet lists and walls of text were very reminiscent to okcupid’s profiles. The only difference was, okcupid didn’t come with warning labels in the form of reviews. So that aspect was much appreciated.

I became mildly obsessed. After getting home from Kohl’s, after waking up, I would begin scanning. I bookmarked different profiles. I mainly gravitated towards the film and book nerds, the ones I knew I would not be stuck grasping at straws for conversation. I tried to avoid the male profiles because my mind inevitably wandered to the idea of some form of relationship. Perhaps it was Amber’s influence, or the fact that I was still trying to move on completely from my last relationship, but I naively dreamed that perhaps my host could become something more. Without the awkward creepiness implied in those craigslist ads. But I suppose on some level I should give credit where credit is due — at least those ads were upfront.

Many conversations began the same way. “Hello! I’m a 23 year old Southern girl looking to get out of Arkansas and move to a land of sunshine and opportunities. Unfortunately, money is an issue at this time. Would you be willing to host me until I get a job (possibly indefinitely)? I swear I make a mean cup of coffee!” Most of these basic messages went through the same revision process repeatedly. Take out a word here, add a smiley face there, swear to myself I did not sound as desperate as I felt. 

Everyday the cold dark of winter pushed closer and closer over the horizon. Time was ticking. I promised myself to be gone by the winter so I could hibernate the way the Monarch butterflies do, in search of a warmer climate to live…and die. I still had a lot of life to live, though, so the death part would need to wait. Which was part of why I insisted on avoiding craigslist like the plague. All that I needed was for someone to bite. Until then, I had to keep on dreaming.

En realidad el sueño americano no era para mí tan grandioso. Fue necesidad que me empujó, la adaptación a unas circunstancias imposibles.

Ya no tuve a quien más para apoyarme o para yo apoyar. Mi abue se murió hace 5 años. Mi familia fue dividida por líneas rayadas por el dinero. Había primos y tíos pero no quisieran que yo me vendiera así, y al saberlo, algunos se pusieron distantes. Sí, lo de la familia fue complicado, un empujón, pero tanto para cumplir como para salir de la situación en sí. Y a la vez, había tantas dudas.

Ya no era un niño. Cuando me veía en el espejo, lo primero que me llamaba la atención eran mis ojeras. No dañaron la vista de mis ojos verde-cafés, pero me hicieron sentir mucho más viejo.

En el camino, sabía que crecían cada vez más, cada vez mis ojeras se ponían más oscuras. Era un viaje corto pero se sintía como una eternidad. Como el paso del tiempo en una nave espacial.

Cruzar la frontera no es lo más emocionante. Es lo que te espera allá. Y en algún momento ya tenía claro que me iba a bajar y nadar y encontrarme en una tierra que no conocía. Oaxaca se volvería un recuerdo colorido y otro punto en el mapa. 

Se escuchan las toses retenidas de los otros pasajeros. La soledad. A pesar de que sus cuerpos quedan cerca, yo me siento lejos. Me imagino caminando por esas calles doradas y me pierdo otra vez, otra vez el conocimiento me invade y se va…


One of the things that makes writing these sorts of passages enjoyable is the sense of melding the self with a person very distinctive and separate from oneself and creating narratives that are both familiar and distant from my own lived experiences. I started writing based on this concept after a conversation with my younger brother about points of view and what could make a love story like this more than a cliché. But I peppered tons of cliches into my character’s thoughts and perceptions of the world, mainly to provoke a sense of realism as well as one of hyperbole and satire.

I don’t know if this story is worth pursuing and writing more. But it was fun rereading something I wrote years ago. As a writer, exercises in point of view shifts really interest me, especially when incorporating the use of different languages.

I’ve been blocked in some ways from writing, although I have been honing my discipline in other areas. So that’s why I’m back here on wordpress, hoping to make posting a habit again.

Murakami’s “What I talk about when I talk about running” has been my inspiration. I swear, I’ve had this book for the past 5 years, and that’s how slowly I have been reading it. There are moments when I don’t appreciate Murakami’s voice, his understating and candid way of casually discussing his successes. It makes me think, “If only it were that easy!” But I think it just might be, and he might have a point. Because in no way is he really implying that writing award-winning novels is “easy” but rather that it doesn’t just come out of some happy accident, some inborn, innate skill. It takes discipline. We in the West give too much credit to “talent.” So as time goes on, I’m starting to read his words differently and see the wisdom suddenly mixed in in his self-deprecating style.

Also, sidebar, I’m reading the version translated into Spanish. The title is De Qué Hablo Cuando Hablo de Escribir and — wow. I didn’t even realize the original title was way better and less redundant until googling the English title just now. For writers, I would highly recommend this book.

To honing our bodies, to sharpening our minds.

From the Archives: Poesía de Resistencia

Vida Desértica – El Desierto de la Tatacoa, el Gris

Esperanzas Caídas: la Flor Transplante

Puedo embrujar con mi belleza,
Una mirada coqueta, un vistazo de miel
Y carne y hueso y sangre
Pero eso no me completa
No me define.
Mis venas se convierten en raíces
Buscando tierra fértil en la que
Se puedan sentir en casa
Pero sólo encuentran huecos,
Lugares donde se pueden quedar
Sin angustia, sin molestia, sin pena,
Pero pronto se ponen a morir.
Sus hojas se marchitan y
Se vuelven marrón, gris, negro y
La flor se cae al suelo,
Descuidada, olvidada
En tierra extranjera
Y distante, los recuerdos de 
Su belleza encantadora
Se van olvidando, esfumando
Aunque la transplante pidió lo contrario,
Que la cuidara bien la tierra,
Pero está envenenada en cada rincón
Y no había forma de evitarlo
Ni prevenirlo ni siquiera darse cuenta
Antes de que desaparezca todo
Y no queda nada mas que tierra yerma.

Perfect Circle – Montaña el Gigante, Huila

La Lucha Ajena

We cannot fight injustice
In isolation.
That’s what they want–
Each of us struggling from 
Our own separate little islands,
Fighting like we’re alone.
Only if we band together
As people, as humanity,
Can true change come.
Why do you think so many
Marxist revolutions ended
In dissolution and confusion,
Corrupted by global capitalism
And elitism and the Vanguard–
Fuck the Vanguard.

Only if we come together as one,
Organize, empathize,
Will we end injustice,
End the bloodshed in the streets
And the mindless fury–
The greed of the rich,
The survivalism of the poor,
All hustling for themselves or
A dream deterred;
Langston Hughes knew:
If we can feel
For a poem or feel
Pain for some character
Whose heart never felt,
Who never existed,
Then why not fight
For our fellow flesh-
And-blood.

We’re always saying:
“The struggle is real,”
But what are we struggling
If not the struggle of others:
The women in the sweatshops,
In the brothels of the so-called
Third world, a broken model,
The obrero and the aspiring
Rapper, painter, entrepreneur,
Survivor, whatever you are,
Wherever you come from–
Compton, Harlem, Honduras,
Martinique, Korea, the Congo,
The slums, the suburbs,
‘Cause who are we?
Are we our hoods
And gentrified oases,
Segregated from one another
As if our flesh were
Sliced in pieces and flayed
From our bodies?
Who are we
To struggle at all,
The struggle of others–
But if we aren’t,
Moving, fighting, bleeding,
Breathing the struggle
Then we are dust on the wind
Of history,
We are soon forgotten,
Negatable, silent,
Better off dead–
Nothing.

‘Cause who the fuck am I?
White girl, middle class girl,
Ignoring the fact that middle class
Is code for upper class aspiring,
‘Cause I never wanted the lies
They were selling, like high-
Priced cosmetics, all fluff
That I don’t need anyway–
I’d rather cut my legs off
Fighting someone else’s
Battle than waste a few hours
Deciding if my skin is too white
To care or if the bags under my
Eyes are too offensive to the eye.
‘Cause I believe if it’s hurting you,
It’s hurting me.
We’re all part of the same body,
And if I let them sever you,
Why not sever myself
And give into the depression
Eating me alive without meaning–
Better with meaning,
To scream till my lungs
Explode, to know
What it feels like
To have a reason
To suffer
And in doing so
Lessen the suffering
Of others.

La Ceiba, Gigante – símbolo nacional de la libertad de Colombia

Adaptación

Tengo el don de la adaptación.
El mundo siempre está cambiando y
yo también.

Cambio de piel
Cambio de voz
Cambio de opinión
Cambio de perspectiva
Cambio de tema
Cambio de camino
Pero a la vez

No cambio por nadie–
Y nunca lo haré.

Viva el Paro – Santa Marta, Magdalena

“They’re Killing Us”: Paro Nacional and Witnessing a Human Rights Crisis

Pode ser uma imagem de uma ou mais pessoas e texto que diz "LAWMARTINEZR NOS QUIE REN SACAR LOS OJOS PORQUE SABEN QUE YA LOS ABRIMOS"

The heat has been suffocating in the “City of the Holy Kings.” Since yesterday, we’ve been under a perpetual veil of heavy clouds and humid heat. Last night, I thought for sure that the sky would finally break open and rain would wash the streets clean.

Instead, the heat and dimness continue. The only thing that washed the streets of Valledupar last night was the blood of civilians protesting. The explosion came, but not in the form of rain, thunder, or lightning. The tension caused by the chaos that seized the march and the detention of protestors is palpable and unrelenting.

Social media has given us the gift of reaching people from around the world in a matter of moments. Tears wet my cheeks as I read through and watch video after video of a horror that seems to have happened over night. If only. Imagine, if social media had existed in the 80’s when farms were actively being gassed or during the Segovia massacre of 1988. The past 30 years have been marked by the slaughter of union leaders, farmers, campesinos, indigenous people, sympathizers of certain political parties, and anyone with the gall to demand that their human rights be respected.

As someone that studied Latin American history and politics, I felt stirred by these facts and narratives having only been able to experience them dead on the page. I didn’t imagine that I might actually be in the middle of one of these historical and devastating moments. I didn’t realize just how sadly entrenched they are in the human experience of people living under oppression in communities all over the world.

There have been dozens of videos circulating of people running through the streets, tanks filling the city, teargas shrouding the air, the sound of weapons firing, children screaming as their anguished faces are washed with milk, the cries for justice even as the police deny the right to protest, deny that they themselves are acting with cruel impunity. As they throw teargas bombs into buses full of civilians. As they gather around the people, non-binary, men, women, elderly, children, and grab them, threaten them, punch them, force them into corners, and carry them off on motorcycles.

I’ve always wondered about these ESMAD characters. They’re supposed to be brave defenders of the public. An anti-riot branch of the Colombian police force. They’re supposed to be these pillars of justice that go to protests to dissuade violence and looting. In fact, it’s ironic to see them in their heavy armor carrying their huge weapons as they tower over and surround – unarmed young people that look defenseless by comparison – and incite violence. And we are supposed to believe they are protecting the community from the protestors they mercilessly intimidate?

Everyone I know is against this tax reform and supporting the constitutional rights of Colombians to protest. Except, astonishingly, for the members of the military I’ve met. According to statistics circulating, around 80% of the Colombian population are against the tax overhaul reform that’s supposed to respond to the economic crisis the country is facing. How does it propose to solve the crisis? By taxing and subsidizing. The main issue that people are expressing with this method is that the crisis being faced in Colombia – unemployment, increasing poverty, a poor and slowly executed vaccination process – is not going to be fixed by raising taxes and adding new ones. True, part of the taxing would only apply to the wealthier sectors of society, but it would also include the struggling middle class or middle class-aspiring sector.

And all to be able to provide an 80.000 pesos (that’s only around $22 USD!) monthly subsidy for people living in extreme poverty. What will that do? Oh, so much if you ask the richest sector of Colombian society who perhaps could afford to do just a little bit more. But that would require that money stop being stolen from public works budgets, equally inflated in importance but never producing the promised result.

People are skeptical. People are scared. Who could possibly blame them, when the stakes are this high and everything they’ve experienced from the authorities so far has resulted in lies and more lies.

And now, to top it off, it takes marches for the president to call for a “reworking” of the reform. It takes the documenting of at least 21 murders by the military and the police, 940 cases of police brutality, 672 arbitrary arrests of civilians, and 4 victims of sexual violence (that we know of) for people to take notice of what has been a history soaked in blood. That’s why, in solidarity, as a sign of resistance, Colombians use the flag as their icon, upside down, placing the red blood of the patriots who fought for freedom at the top.

As an expat living in Colombia I’ve learned that even though I may never understand what it’s like to have grown up in extreme poverty, living on $100 or less a month working every day of the year with zero paid vacation time, in a country in civil war where tanks and fully armed soldiers can be seen patrolling the streets for no known reason except to “maintain order” – I stand. I stand with the people that are sick of living in fear.

Just as any US American should. This is just as much our fight. After all, our country funded all of this military equipment. Our country provided the resources to militarize the police force. Our country supported the “paraco hpta” of Uribe as it has countless right-wing military dictators. Our country benefited by keeping so many countries impoverished and suppressed.

And now? We’re finally starting realize that these actions and choices have consequences. Allowing corruption to exist in other places to benefit businesses in “first world” countries is like setting your house on fire to warm your own room during the winter. Now, the countries that have dealt with the brunt of colonization and foreign intervention and neo-liberalism have governments corrupted at every level, and this corruption leads to the same economic crisis happening in Colombia. And with a global pandemic? Full hospitals, under-paid medical workers, non-existent relief packages, non-existent state aid for the nearly 40% of the population living below the poverty line, and a population in which only 1 859 657 out of 51,321,307 people have been vaccinated so far.* And the list goes on and on…

Yet the conversation remains divided along economic lines. Just like in the US, here we have people feebly and some even passionately decrying vandalism and chiding those brave enough to protest. In spite of the fact that the protestors have stopped and even prevented and returned looted goods, there is always a portion of the population which demonizes all protestors as criminals who want the government to “give them everything.”

No, not everything. Just the human right to a life of dignity. Just a transparent government with a clear record on its budgets and military maneuvers. A stand against corruption. The right to demonstrate. The right to a future where children cannot be killed and gassed by the police and face zero consequences.

I know. It’s overwhelming. So much is happening in the world right now. And then there’s this. But these are just the consequences of history. If we don’t learn our history and see how we are all connected by it, we will never escape the domino effect we’ve been locked into. We are all facing one global struggle. If we cannot come together, if we cannot care about our neighbors, then we’re screwing ourselves over just as much.

While all of this is going on, I’m teaching classes online from my apartment in Valledupar. I’m living my dream life, and yet nothing could feel more upsetting and wrong.

To relieve some stress, I order a snack. I walk down the stairs out to meet the delivery man. He’s lost, and for a good reason. My apartment building has gone ghostly silent. All of the corridors are dark. I haven’t been outside today, but if what I’ve been watching online is any indicator, the sense of abandonment and fearfulness is real. Just the other day, Uribe posted on his twitter condoning the use of violence and force to suppress protestors out of “self-defense” against “terrorism.” With leaders like this with all of their shady, violent histories and absent morals, yet somehow untouched by international authorities – it’s easy for me to comprehend this silence. Plus, my apartment is somewhat removed from the heart of the city. But I can imagine that the silence there is just as heavy. Silence like a paperweight, a reminder of what’s happened and what’s to come.

I sense that this is only the calm in the eye of the storm. Many have posted warning against false fliers calling for protestors to meet tonight. They say this is a tactic that is used to round up the protestors and slaughter them all at once. Protesting will resume tomorrow, though, and I plan to be there.

This might not be my fight, but I am here and I will be there in spirit and in body to make sure that I can be some part of the change I have been dreaming about seeing in the world. As so many have said before me, including the current president of the United States: “Our silence is complicity.” And I refuse to choose silence.

Our power is in our voices, our platforms, our identities. Do not underestimate your power and ability to fight injustice.

*Meanwhile, in the US over 105 million people have already been vaccinated; Colombia continues to be in its “2nd phase” in which only medical workers and people between 60-79 years old are eligible to be vaccinated. Global inequality is real.

Pode ser uma imagem de 1 pessoa, em pé e ao ar livre
Credit to: @bryanbeltran_ph (https://instagram.com/bryanbeltran_ph?igshid=cpxlbgzr2ohu)

Some useful sources:

COVID-19 Vaccine Tracker: How Many People Have Been Vaccinated In The U.S.? : Shots – Health News : NPR

covid-19-data/Colombia.csv at master · owid/covid-19-data · GitHub

Vacunación contra la COVID-19 en Colombia – Wikipedia, la enciclopedia libre

Colombian Tax Reform and International Tax Law – Universidad Externado de Colombia (uexternado.edu.co)

Reforma tributaria 2021: esto es lo que deben saber los colombianos – El Espectador – YouTube

In Colombia, 19 Are Killed in Pandemic-Related Protests – The New York Times (nytimes.com)

Petition to involve the UN:

Petición · Que la ONU Intervenga YA para detener el genocidio que promueve el gobierno en Colombia · Change.org

From My Notes: Days 4-5: Adventures in San Gil and surrounding towns

It’s 10 am. I’m headed to Curiti. From there I’m going to hike to the pozos, some natural pools that are perfect for dirty humans to swim in. I meant to head out an hour ago — I left my hostel at about 9 when I meant to leave at 8. So here we are.

The bus from the Terminalito to Curiti cost just 3.500.

We got there in 20 minutes.

The 7 pozos are probably better when you’re swimming with friends, and not on your period, but I enjoyed the peace. The walk seemed unending, especially alone. I enjoyed the views, the goats and sheep off in the distance and the rolling mountains reminding me of some warmer Switzerland (or what I can imagine the Swiss countryside might be like; pure speculation). I thought I was going to burn for sure. It’s been humid, warm, but overcast. I guess I got lucky. My skin is still peeling from my adventures snorkeling and laying out on the beach in Santa Marta. Otherwise I’m in tact.

I think I made it to 6 of the 7 pozos. After confirming that they all had people in them in some capacity, I picked the one that was the most ample with the fewest people. I think it was two groups, a family, and some couples. I waded around and enjoyed the water cascading from the top to the bottom where I sat. Being in water always refreshes me. I had to do some light rock scaling to get in and out, but I managed the take a dip and put back on my shoes and dress without soaking them. 

I ran into a lady I met at the hostel with her partner and child. She was surprised I was alone and figured I must have been bored. In reality I needed a quiet hike and swim like that. I had seen water far clearer and more aqua but it was still worth the experience. She had rented a small tube for 2 mil. She told me there were bigger ones for 4-6 mil. Next time, I said. I wonder when that will be.

I took lots of pictures and videos before heading back to Curiti to enjoy a brownie con helado and a bebida santadereana (it was really good). Then it was back to the hostel to rest for a bit before waiting a solid hour to take a bus up to Páramo.

The bus to Páramo was just 6 mil ($2). The town was tiny and not so far away.

I checked into Posada San Luis, an inn just up the road from the central park and church at 5:33 pm. I immediately got met with a few obstacles I vented about in my notes:

Though nice, the lady working at the front desk couldn’t offer recommendations.

There were no restaurants to eat at, so I had to settle for a very basic hotdog at a small resto-tienda in the main square.

For the first several hours the WiFi wouldn’t work.

When I went to ask someone, there was no one at reception to help me (And likewise when I returned from eating, I had to let myself in).

Help seemed nonexistent. But you get what you pay for, and while $50 mil has gotten me more in Colombia, it still wasn’t so bad.

Day 5: Páramo 

Páramo is a town that bases its tourism almost solely on extreme sports and outdoor activities. There are next to no restaurants around the square. Even though it was not so late when I got there, like 6 pm, everything was dead. I checked in where I found to my further dismay that the WiFi wasn’t working. I guess I needed to disconnect, but why did it have to be when I had a private class scheduled?

Gloria, an ex teacher and now the person I presume running the hotel Posada San Luis told me I could find Fastfood near the park. In reality there was only one place open, half pharmacy half tienda/restaurant. I was dodging bugs while waiting for my lulo and hotdog. I like eating alone, but there’s something uncomfortable about being the only person sitting in silence with nothing to look at. Am I the only one that feels that way? The jugo de lulo was good, the hotdog had too much salsa de piña, but I went back to my hotel with a full stomach, which was the important thing.

Eventually the WiFi randomly connected, but I still took the chance to go to bed before 10 pm. I woke up several times during the night, not because I was uncomfortable, but just because my body wasn’t prepared to rest as much as it was. That and the fan eventually was too cold. Good problems, in my opinion.

I got up before 7, got ready, had a complimentary tinto and ate one of the apples I brought from home. I got in touch with the tour company, Camine Mano. They opened at 8, so I was among the first people to show. The inn is a block from the main square, and this tour company is located right next to the police station. I was set, changed into my hiking shoes, leggings, a tshirt with my swim suit underneath. I struck up conversation with one of the guides, a nice guy by the name of Juan Camilo. We discussed language learning, a topic that comes up a lot in my travels. Usually after they realize where I’m from and what I do. And show surprise that I’m from the states but speak Spanish well. I’m cautious to take this as a compliment, wholesale, but it’s still a nicer comment than what this one taxi driver said to me the other day in Valledupar: “Wow just goes to show! Four years and you still have an accent!” Not one of my happiest moments. But bless the man for his honesty. The only thing worse is when they praise you and you know it’s pure bullshit. So it is what it is.

Two of the first women to arrive ended up scooping me and including me in their pictures for the tour. I suppose because it would be a cheaper deal to split the cost with a third person, but still, like the group I met in San Gil, they were very open and friendly. They were both a bit older than me and super nice. I’ve encountered more people from Bogota during this trip than from anywhere else. Sincerely all the encounters have been positive. They’ve included me in their groups and asked genuine and insightful questions. It’s refreshing after so much of the same in Valledupar, even after 4 years of living there. This is why I like traveling. It’s easy to forget that people and culture is not the same everywhere. Even in the same country, there are so many types of people, accents, and cultures. It’s reminded me of why I love to travel so much.

There are definitely fewer foreigners in these parts, I’ve noticed. I’ve yet to encounter an American. Our trip to the cave (la Cueva del Indio) was pretty much all people from the interior — Bogota, Cucuta, and the surrounding areas. We made fast friends as we waited around to enter the cave and speculated about what we might see and just how scary it might be. It was a relief to know I wasn’t the only one a little apprehensive about the famous “Salto al Vacio” at the end of the trek. There were 3 or 4 children with us on the tour, so that frankly put me at ease. It really wasn’t nearly as terrifying as my imagination could conjure.

At the end of the tour, soaked, the girls bought me an ice cream before it was time to go our separate ways. I went to the hotel, quickly changed out of my damp clothes, and ran to catch the next bus leaving Paramo and heading one-way to San Gil. That was not something I had anticipated, as I had originally chosen to stay outside of San Gil in order to save time between traveling to my next destination, Tunja, Boyaca.

I realized while taking the bus from San Gil to Tunja that Socorro is much bigger than Páramo. I should’ve stayed there. It even had its own terminal. But hindsight is 20/20, and all worked out anyway.

The bus from San Gil to Tunja left at 2:45. I got there around 10 pm, my phone dead, in the middle of a cold highway in the same dress I had changed into after my spelunking. Once again, all the credit to a kind taxi driver that happened to be sitting right down the road (I wasn’t dropped at a terminal this time, because the Tunja terminal is located a bit outside of the city). I told him the name of my hotel and suggested he google it when he couldn’t recall where it was located. Before I knew it I was taking a hot shower before bedding down in my singlet hotel room a mere block from the main Plaza Simon Bolivar.

Day 3: San Gil & Rafting

I made it to San Gil later than I had bargained for — 2 pm. This was due to a series of unfortunate events: first I checked out without getting my passport. Before I even realized that though I was waiting for my inDriver to pick me up. He was running late and had to make a full block. I had been trying to get to the terminal by 8. I couldn’t get there until 8:20. Then I found that the next bus that was leaving for San Gil wasn’t leaving till 9:40. This actually was a rather fortunate event — a blessing in disguise — because it was around this time that I realized I was missing something very essential. My passport. Shit.

I had to find WiFi in order to contact the hotel. Breathe, I told myself. Don’t panic, there’s time.

You see as I mentioned when I got to the second hotel it was 5 am, and I was exhausted. They told me they needed my passport to check me in so I handed it over. Then I never got it back.

It’s a good thing I got my new SIM card and a better thing that the terminal in Bucaramanga has public WiFi. I contacted the hotel and they quickly got a delivery guy to bring me my passport. Without the SIM card, I would’ve missed the guy completely as I had no idea where he was. Mark the first of many times I ran around like a chicken with my head cut off looking around and asking directions all over the place.

6 mil later, I had my passport back. Then it was time to board the bus. There was tons of traffic between Bucaramanga and San Gil, which turned a one hour trip to a four hour trip. Again, not ideal as I was going to take a bus to explore Curiti or originally go to Cañón Chicamocha to trek the same day.

Once I got to San Gil, having slept most of the way, I woke up groggy and spaced out. The driver helped me with my bag but we both forgot one key thing: the package my friend Liz entrusted me with. I found a taxi and literally sat down before realizing what I was missing. Like a crazy woman, I tell the taxista I’m missing something important and dart out of the taxi. I run across the terminal, praying that the bus hasn’t left yet. I nearly got onto the wrong Reina bus that was leaving, but once I realized it was a driver I didn’t recognize, I apologized and rushed to the other Reina bus — and somehow, it was my bus. Everyone stared at me as I gasped for air and triumphantly reached up and grabbed the rectangular package. Feeling everyone starring at me, I explained I’d almost left it, but “todo bien, menos mal.” One step closer to following through with my promise to deliver it safely to Nibiru.

On to Trip Monkey! A cheap taxi ride, just 4800 and not so far off the path. Trip Monkey is ranked number 1 among hostels in San Gil, and it was easy to see why. I was greeted immediately by Yosh (or Josh?) who quickly sorted me out using a map to show me what my options were during my 2 day (1 night) stay. After showing me the king sized (yes “matrimonial”) bunkbed I’d be sleeping in and giving me the grand tour, I took a moment to sort out the information I was given.

I was able to do so much during my short time:

-Parque Gallineral: a natural park right down the road from the hostel, 6k to enter, a peaceful and lovely place to enjoy the natural riches of San Gil on the banks of the Fonce River.

-rafting down this same river at 4 pm for 60.000 cop.

-exploring the 7 pozos of Pescaderito near the town of Curití

-Heading to Páramo in the afternoon to rest before a dive into the Cueva del Indio the next day

And I left having the opportunity of making some nice friends from Bogota in the process! That’s been the coolest part of this trip, the different contacts I’ve been able to make and the stimulating conversations I’ve shared along the way.

I struck up conversation with the group that was going rafting at the same time as me. In reality, their plans had been made and they had been staying at Trip Monkey for several days already. They accepted me into their group immediately and showed interest in getting to know me. I guess we foreigners living in Valledupar are some kind of enigmas. It has given plenty to talk about, that’s for sure.

When we got to the raft launch point, I got placed with a separate, smaller group. They were a family, made up of two small children, two women, a younger guy, and me. And the guide who instructed us and kept us from flipping the boat. The guy was a saint for sure, because somehow nobody fell out of the boat in spite of all the crying and rapids we ran into at the beginning. I love the water and all, but even I have to admit I was a little nervous at first. I didn’t mind getting wet, but falling into the water and possibly hitting my head on a rock? Yeah, I think in worst case scenarios, what can I say?

But as soon I was at the front of the boat rowing away (following the instructions shouted by our guide: Adelante! – Forward – Alto! – Stop – Atras – Back – who had taught us the proper way to hold the oar and paddle ahead of time), I felt like the hero of an action-adventure movie. I was Pocahontas mentally singing Just Around the Riverbend at full belt. I was surrounded by beauty and lush greenery, birds, trees, ancient rocks, and cold rushing waters sometimes replaced by seductively subtle whirlpools. It was magical. I would do it a million times over — I would even go for a more challenging route like a 4-5. Just like that, fear was not a problem.

The other half of the family/friend group was on a smaller raft. Unlike us, they had trouble distributing their weight. They must have fallen out or tipped their boat over at least 4 or 5 times. I got to save one of them as she was pulled toward our boat by the current. Easier said than done — pulling her into the boat was a joint effort. Nobody was hurt, and she was able to jump back into her raft a bit later.

After our hour-long adventure, we made it to the side of the river closer to San Gil. The guide had a go-pro and was kind enough to send me all of the videos and pictures taken of the tour. While we dried off, I spoke some more with my new travel buddies from the hostel. They shared some lemon cake with me, and the strong, gorgeous woman that drove us to and from the rafting area convinced me to buy a bag of artisanal coffee grown in the area. For my parents, I decided, I wouldn’t say no.

Once we were back at the hostel, we sat out on the back patio and enjoyed Burger Night — $16000 for a freshly grilled burger, nachos, guac, and a beer. I had 3 beers while chatting with the group, made up of a few couples and friends from work and childhood. We played our first game of Rummi, one that involves quite a bit of math and patterns. Somehow (beginner’s luck, no doubt) I managed to win. We laughed and enjoyed ourselves until around 11 when we had finished the game and decided to get some rest for the new adventures waiting for us on the following day.

Traveling has a way of stripping all of your mundane worries and fears down and putting them in perspective. I used to be so guarded with new people. But sometimes it just takes sharing — information, interests, a game — in order to create a vibe. I started the day tired and stressed out. I ended it relaxed and rejuvenated, exhausted yet perfectly content. I have reminded myself daily during this trip, whether what is happening is good or bad: it’s the journey. It’s part of the story. Each day and moment and challenge is what we make of it.

A marathon, not a sprint

I got into Bucaramanga at 5 am. Even though I slept on the bus and even had a row of two seats to myself in the front to lay across and try to become comfortable, I still felt exhausted. (I still feel exhausted)

All I could think about was the hotel room waiting for me. I knew it was too early to check in — I booked the room for Monday night. I didn’t care. I couldn’t think.

I listened to Kafka on the Shore on the bus ride until I fell asleep 5 chapters in and had to replace it with relaxing music to avoid missing anything and having to relisten to the same chapters. Kafka is the self-given pseudonym of the protagonist, a 15 year old male runaway. Like most Murakami stories I’ve encountered, his solitude is interrupted by a chance (what they call “karmic”) meeting with a girl called Sakura. They had each fallen asleep on the bus around the time that I did the same. They woke up just as sore and exhausted as I did. Somehow that seems appropriate.

I got to my hotel quickly enough, 8 pesos, and I was promptly informed that there was nowhere for me to sleep until checkin at 3 pm. Let’s just say, I’m less than impressed with Ayenda hotels. Still, the receptionist, Maria Fernanda, was accommodating and helped me get a room in another hotel. Just $25 mil pesos more for a private room upgraded with AC. The only downside is its proximity to reception — right by a noisy downtown street with noisy workmen and guests. But beggars can’t be choosers. I was just happy to have somewhere to sleep. I underestimated how tired I was.

I slept from 6 am until noon. I had three missions today: get a SIM card, print, sign, and email a contract, and find a place to eat and work at. I somehow accomplished it all. I’m sitting outside of Crepes & Waffles right now, getting ready to give an English class. I’ve been here since 4 pm. It’s located in Parque Pio, a very central location that’s had people in and out since I’ve been here.

Many recommended I do different things today. I liked the idea, but my exhaustion overrode everything. Tomorrow I’ll be staying at a hostel in San Gil. I’ll go to Canyon Chicamocha and hike. Adventure is around the corner. But today was evidence that my body needed rest above and beyond all else.

Travel like you’re running a marathon, not a sprint. That’s something life has taught me. Listen to your body. You don’t want to be miserable rushing around doing things just because you feel that’s what you’re supposed to do.